Parramatta - Australia’s great heritage tourism failure

Parramatta was at the centre of the development of the British penal colony of New South Wales from its beginnings in 1788. Right now it’s at the centre of a property development boom that includes the controversial $800 million Powerhouse Museum project. Despite the bucketloads of cash pouring into Parramatta, the rich heritage tourism opportunities of Sydney's second CBD have never been properly recognised or realised.

A few years ago I was working on a heritage tourism project about Parramatta in Sydney's western suburbs and I asked the concierge at a local international hotel if there were any local historical sites I should visit? She politely advised that there was nothing of historical interest in Parramatta but The Rocks in the city was a great place for history and heritage seekers.

A few days later, I asked one of the staff in the tourism information centre in The Rocks whether there was anything to see in Parramatta. I got the same answer. In The Rocks, I was told, I had Sydney's history at my fingertips. No reason to travel to Parramatta.

These answers were unsurprising. There's a good chance this is what most Sydney residents would say - including a good many Parramatta residents.

When Australians think convict history and heritage, they think The Rocks, Hyde Park Barracks, Port Arthur, Macquarie Harbour, Fremantle Western Australia and other destinations. The international tourism industry thinks the same way.

All of these places have built tourism visitation and a tourism economy around their heritage sites.

Parramatta rarely makes the cut.

Yet Parramatta is equally significant, and has equal or better heritage assets.

Most Australians are unaware of Parramatta’s penal colony history and the remnants of that time, and even less so, Parramatta’s important role in the frontier wars as the British took their colony deeper into First Nations territory.

Missed opportunity - part of the Female Factory precinct © Mark Bowyer

One of Australia’s most impressive heritage sites lies unknown in Parramatta - The Female Factory © Mark Bowyer

Parramatta's failure to establish its deserved position as a heritage tourism destination has many causes. But as record amounts of money flood into the booming city, a fresh and focused effort needs to be made to ensure that heritage opportunities are a fixture in Parramatta's future.

I've visited and photographed all of Parramatta's major heritage properties many times. They include Old Government House, the oldest standing public building in Australia, and Elizabeth Farm, the oldest standing residential dwelling in Australia and the former residence of the Macarthur family.

They’re the best known destinations in Parramatta, well managed and well presented. But I’ve seen few indications that they receive the visitor numbers they should - during or before the pandemic.

Old Government House Parramatta © Mark Bowyer

The Macarthur Family residence, Elizabeth Farm, Parramatta © Mark Bowyer

Recently I've taken an interest in two Parramatta heritage locations that are begging for proper recognition - St John's Cemetery (1790) and the Female Factory (1821).

They should be among Australia's best known convict history sites. But they're virtually unknown. In any other place in Australia they'd be well managed and resourced heritage tourism destinations. But not in Parramatta.

St John's Cemetery is the oldest European Cemetery in Australia (1790), home to the oldest original European grave (1791). It’s the resting place of more than 50 First Fleeters, and other notable figures in the early penal colony. But it's neglected, and doesn't even have the most token signage and presentation, to match its obvious significance (the bit of paper hanging from the noticeboard doesn’t count). It's no different to any abandoned, neglected cemetery anywhere in Australia. But this place is important. And most Australians know nothing of it.

St John’s Cemetery Parramatta - a picture of heritage neglect. ©Mark Bowyer

The oldest original European grave on Australian soil - you’d never know…. St John’s Cemetery Parramatta. ©Mark Bowyer

The lost opportunity at the Female Factory precinct in North Parramatta is more serious. This is the largest and oldest female convict site in Australia with many original structures. What makes this site different is its potential to become a multi-use landmark in Sydney - events, exhibitions, markets - a real community heritage asset. Yet it remains neglected, undeveloped and mostly unknown. It is one of the most impressive and wasted heritage sites in Australia.

The neglect of the Female Factory is a major economic loss to Parramatta and New South Wales.

In Hobart, a later, less significant Female Factory, has few structures on the site. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage listed convict site and a major tourism destination in the city.

Hobart created a World Heritage site out of a lesser remnant. Cascades Female Factory. © Mark Bowyer

Why not Parramatta?

The new Parramatta metro will link the Female Factory site to Parramatta station and the public transport network - a perfect opportunity to finally bring this site and its stories to the world.

Parramatta's heritage assets have long been undervalued and lacking a coherent management and tourism strategy. The creative development of The Female Factory precinct as a community and tourism site would create an anchor heritage destination that would bring benefit all of Parramatta. This should be a priority.

There’s been enough excitement about shiny skyscrapers in Parramatta and enough built. It’s time to put some serious energy into community spaces and Parramatta’s long unrealised tourism potential.

The State Government seems hellbent on its curious $800 million Powerhouse Museum plans. The Female Factory should take precedence.